Day 16: Mackerel Forest Track to Peach Cove Hut (347-386)

I experience so much kind Kiwi hospitality today I can hardly believe it. Last night James told all four of us that is we wanted breakfast at 6 and leave at 6:15, he'd make us breakfast and then drive us to the start of the Mackerel Forest Track (cutting out about 8 km of road walking). I love starting early because the middle of the day is so hot and sunny here so I decided I'd do that. Everyone else wanted to walk the road.

But starting the forest around 6:30 would probably mean I'd get to Tidesong B&B, where I was planning on staying, around noon. That was way too early to end my day, and I thought I could get a day ahead of schedule...giving me an extra day in Auckland at Christmas or an unplanned zero day before Auckland if I need it. So I email Ros at Tidesong to tell her I was making faster time than I thought and probably wouldn't be able to camp there for the night.

Now to today. I woke up and got all packed by 6 so James wouldn't have to wait for me or be late for work. He gave me museli with yogurt and peaches and coffee. It was all so delicious and I'll definitely be buying that instead of oatmeal for my breakfasts....it's about the same as granola.

As we were heading out Marjolein ran up to say goodbye. We weren't sure if we'd see each other again or for awhile because I wanted to try to do about a 40-kilometer day.

While I was on the road after the first forest, I checked my phone and saw Ros had emailed me back (and that my mom had finished our family Christmas letter). Ros said she'd be home in the afternoon if I happened to be going by Tidesong then.

I got to the estuary around noon and knew low tide was at about 3:20. I thought a sign said you could walk the estuary 2 hours on the side of the low tide so I was hopeful I could start it a little after 1. I tried and it was so rough! I lost a shoe and had to pull it out of the mud, but I didn't lose it for good so that's what really matters. I knew there were only two main roads I could hit if I left the estuary, so I followed what I thought was a gravel farm path. I thought I was getting close to the road Tidesong was on but wasn't sure. All of a sudden I saw TA markers and realized there was a sign for Tidesong B&B. I had been on the road I was looking for!

I was pretty covered in mud on my hands and from the knees down, so I thought I'd see if Ros was around and say hi and maybe be lucky enough to rinse my feet. I walked up the driveway and poked my head around and couldn't find anyone so I decided to walk back down the driveway and road walk around the estuary. I figured I'd still probably get around the estuary route on the road before or around low tide. And I wouldn't lose a shoe to the muck.

But just as I made it to the end of the driveway a lady showed up on her bike and asked if I was Erin. It was Ros! We walked back up to the B&B and she gave me some water to rinse my feet, some nice cool water to drink, Christmas pies and muffins and tea. We talked for a bit and it was so wonderful to hear about her family and their business. Her and her husband were farmers but when they sold their farm they bought the home where Tidesong is now and they've turned it into a beautiful Bed and Breakgaat with plenty of camping or cabins for TA-ers. Ros has done an amazing job with the flowers and landscaping!

By the time we were done talking it was about 3:30 and the estuary looked cross-able. Ros walked me out there and showed me the way. It was so nice of her and I'm really glad I got to walk the estuary instead of the road. Once I got to the other side and made it to a flat grassy area I stopped to put on sunscreen and grab my trekking poles. They weren't there! I had left them at Tidesong. But the tides are a little extreme right now because it's nearly a full moon so the water was still leaving the estuary. I left my pack and went back across and saw Marjolein and the other TA trampers were heading through the estuary.

When I got back up to Tidesong, Ros was already trying to figure out how to get me back my poles. I said thank you and went back across the estuary to see Marjolein, the other TA trampers, and my pack. I told Marjolein about Tidesong so I think she went back there to camp, and I said hi to another TA tramper along with Magnus and Robert. But now it was about 4:30 and I hoped to get nearly 20 kilometers further so I quickly hit the trail. I worried I might not make it there til 10 (it gets dark at 9) and would have to camp before the hut.

Ros had told me that there was an alternate trail to get to Peach Cove Hut from the carpark at the end of the Ocean Beach Walk. I was making pretty good time, but around 6:30 I had about 10 kilometers to go. Some ladies halfway down the beach asked if I was trying to get to the hut and told me about the same route Ros had informed me about.

When I was about a kilometer from the end of the beach a man named Paul walked toward me and said hello. He could tell I was a TA tramper and I told him I was trying to make it to the hut before dark. He walked me down the last bit of beach and showed me a little shortcut through his driveway. The whole way he was pointing out birds and telling me all about them. It was fascinating. He used to work for the DOC (I'm not sure if I've explained this yet, but in NZ, saying DOC - department of conservation - is similar to saying NPS - national park service - in the US).

He told me exactly where to go, pointed out some landmarks so I couldn't make a wrong turn and was pretty positive I could make it to the hut before dark (I could have camped along the beach if needed but a hut sounded so nice and I'd already paid for it). Around 8:15 I arrived at the hut. It was perfect timing! Just before it got dark I had time to find the hut's toilet and filter all the water I needed for tomorrow.

Now I should have an easy 10-kilometer day tomorrow (if I can hitch into Whangarei from the end of this section of the trail). And then I get to have a tourist zero day there!

I don't think I've mentioned this yet, but while hiking I pass a lot of beehives. They began in one of the first three forest tracks. They're for Manuka Honey. The bees never bother me but it's always interesting to see all the hives.

Road walking! Some people dislike road walking. Sure it's a little hard on your feet, but I can get way more kilometers per day in on the road, so I kinda enjoy the mix. But just in the last few days I've learned about 2 road sections the TA may be … — Road walking! Some people dislike road walking. Sure it's a little hard on your feet, but I can get way more kilometers per day in on the road, so I kinda enjoy the mix. But just in the last few days I've learned about 2 road sections the TA may be able to cut by next year. Eventually they hope to have it all off the roads.

The tree on the left, I can't remember it's name but they are called New Zealand's Christmas tree. They still use pine for their homes with presents like we do, but theses New Zealand trees start blooming with red flowers around Christmas.

Ros showed me how to get across the estuary which I really appreciated!

Ros took a photo of me crossing the estuary.

Horses on the beach! There was about a 6 km beach walk today. I'm glad it was only 6 km, because I really think the sand is what gave me all the blisters at the start of the walk. Once it's in your shoes it's almost impossible to get out.

The inside of Peach Cove Hut. It's a panorama so it's distorted to look a little larger than it is.